Hotel Union Geiranger Review: A Local’s Honest Take

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Hotel Union Geiranger is my favorite place to stay in Geiranger, and after roughly 15 to 20 stays and more than 50 nights here, I know the hotel pretty well.

I visit Geiranger frequently as an Adventures by Disney Adventure Guide, and Hotel Union has become my home away from home. I would choose it every time, even with all the other accommodation options in the village.

Part of that is the beautiful setting and the spectacular views, but it’s also the feeling you get when you stay here. Hotel Union is family-owned and is now in its fourth generation with the Mjelva family, and that personal connection is something you can genuinely feel throughout the hotel.

The staff are warm and welcoming, and there is a sense that they actually enjoy having you there (yes, seriously). It feels like you’re staying somewhere with a personality and a history, rather than simply checking into a hotel.

If you’re looking for a slightly more special experience in Geiranger, want to feel like you’ve properly escaped, or are particularly interested in the spa, Hotel Union is the hotel I’d recommend.

Hotel Union: Location & First Impressions

Hotel Union sits at the “top” of Geiranger, perched above the village and the cruise port. That gives it one of its biggest advantages: the views and the feeling of being away from the hustle and bustle below.

The village is only a 5 to 10-minute walk away, using the waterfall trail that runs down alongside the waterfall through the village. It’s an easy way to get into Geiranger, but remember that what goes down must come back up!

The walk back to Hotel Union involves stairs and an uphill climb.

Personally, I love the location. When cruise ships are in Geiranger and the waterfront is busy with visitors, Hotel Union feels wonderfully removed from it all. You can come back to the hotel, look out over the fjord, and feel like you’ve escaped the crowds.

Fjord-view rooms look out over the Geirangerfjord and the dramatic mountains surrounding it, and this is one of the hotel’s biggest selling points. But don’t automatically dismiss the mountain-view rooms. I also love the peaceful view from the back of the hotel, where the atmosphere feels incredibly serene.

In fact, I prefer the rooms facing the mountain, and I’ll tell you why soon.

The hotel itself has a cozy, modernized historic feel. It isn’t brand-new and polished in the way a newly built luxury hotel might be, but it also doesn’t feel old-fashioned. Instead, it has retained its character while being comfortable and updated for modern travelers.

A big part of that character comes from the fact that Hotel Union is still family-owned. The Mjelva family has run the hotel for generations, and the current owners are often around the property themselves, doing everything from helping with luggage to overseeing events.

That is something I particularly appreciate about the hotel. You can feel that this is someone’s family business, not just a hotel business.

And after staying here more than 50 nights, that’s probably the thing I value most.

The Rooms

I’ve stayed in several different room categories at Hotel Union, including Classic, Superior, Deluxe with Fjord View and Deluxe with Balcony. I’ve enjoyed all of them, but my personal favorite is actually the Superior Room with a mountain view.

The Classic Rooms are the smallest, at around 20 to 23 square meters, while the other categories offer more space. The rooms are colorful and cozy, with many having been fully refurbished or updated ahead of the royal wedding held at the hotel in 2024.

The bathrooms in some rooms haven’t been updated as recently, but I don’t find this bothersome. If anything, I think it fits the hotel’s historic character. That said, some rooms have a step-in tub/shower combination, so if you need a step-free shower, make sure to check this when booking.

One thing I particularly love about the rooms is how cozy they are. The beds are soooo soft, and the duvets are wonderfully thick and fluffy. You may find them a little warm on one of those rare hot Norwegian summer days, but most of the year, they’re perfect.

Every room has a Nespresso machine, which is a feature I genuinely appreciate. I’m usually at the front desk asking for more coffee pods because I drink two or three cups a day!

The rooms also have luxurious robes, which are particularly nice when you’re staying at the hotel for the spa. As it is a spa hotel, you’ll regularly see guests walking through the hallways in robes and slippers.

Which room should you book?

If you want to spend time in your room enjoying the scenery, I’d choose a fjord-view room. The view over the Geirangerfjord is beautiful, and waking up to it is a pretty special way to start the day.

It is, after all, one of the best fjords in Norway.

However, my personal preference is the mountain-view Superior Room. These rooms face the back of the hotel and are wonderfully quiet, with a peaceful view of the mountains.

There’s one thing to keep in mind with the fjord-view rooms: the waterfall running through the village can be surprisingly loud, even with the windows closed. If you enjoy sleeping with white noise, this could be a bonus. Personally, I need complete silence to sleep, so I prefer the mountain view.

Overall, I think the rooms strike a nice balance between comfort and character. They aren’t designed to feel like a brand-new, anonymous luxury hotel, and that’s part of what I like about staying at Hotel Union.

The Hotel Union Spa

The spa at Hotel Union is one of my favorite parts of staying here. I’ve visited quite a few spa resorts during my travels, and I think this one is genuinely very good.

The facilities include a sauna with mountain views, occasional sauna rituals, a Japanese jacuzzi, a foot bath and a cold-water stone path that you can walk through. The latter is particularly good for your feet and is a fun way to cool down between the warmer facilities.

But my favorite part is the relaxation area overlooking the Geirangerfjord. There are comfortable places to curl up with a book, and there’s even a phone you can use to order snacks and drinks from the front desk. Bring your book, settle in, order something to drink and enjoy the view. I can easily spend longer here than I intended.

Spa access is available to non-hotel guests, although treatments need to be booked in advance. Spa access itself generally doesn’t require advance booking, but I’d check with the hotel if you’re visiting during a particularly busy period.

I’d set aside at least one to two hours for the spa facilities, and longer if you have a good book. If you’re booking a treatment, I’d also allow some extra time to enjoy the spa before or afterward.

Personally, I prefer going to the spa after a treatment. I don’t particularly enjoy getting a massage with wet bikini bottoms!

And if you’re wondering whether Hotel Union is good enough for royalty, Queen Sonja of Norway is a frequent visitor to both the hotel and its spa. She clearly knows where to relax in Geiranger.

Dining at Hotel Union

Breakfast at Hotel Union is lovely, with a generous selection of both hot and cold food. You’ll find Norwegian pancakes, eggs, bacon, scrambled eggs and sausages alongside breads, spreads and other breakfast favorites. I’m particularly partial to the Norwegian blue cheese.

I’ve had the dinner buffet several times as well as the à la carte menu, and I’ve had good experiences with both. I’d recommend eating at Hotel Union at least once during your stay.

You can check the à la carte menu and decide whether that suits you better, or go for the buffet if you want more variety.

One thing to know is that the dinner buffet can get very busy when the hotel is full. With around 300 guests eating at the same time, it can feel more hectic than relaxing.

My insider tip is to ask at the restaurant podium when making your dinner reservation what time is likely to be quieter. They try to split the seating for the buffet to make it as calm as possible, so asking them will be helpful for both your party and the team!

For something more casual, you can also order pizza to the lobby lounge. The lounge has a relaxed, friendly atmosphere, and there’s an outdoor seating area where you can enjoy the views when the weather cooperates.

If you’re eating in the main restaurant, try to get a window table. The views are beautiful, and they’re a big part of the experience. The staff are consistently friendly and professional, too.

And if you’re traveling with a sweet tooth, save room for dessert. The soft-serve ice cream machine at the buffet is particularly popular (with me and my friends).

Other Hotel Facilities

There is more to Hotel Union than the rooms and spa, and a few of the hotel’s other facilities are worth making time for.

My favorite is the heated outdoor pool. There’s something particularly relaxing about swimming outside while surrounded by the mountains of Geiranger, and you can even bring a drink out with you. The lawn around the pool has lounge beds and seating, making it an excellent place to spend a lazy afternoon when the weather is good.

The hotel also has a collection of vintage seven-seat cars in the basement, which is surprisingly fun to look around. It’s an unusual little feature and worth a visit, especially if you’re interested in cars or the history of the hotel.

The hotel has been expanded several times over the years, so the layout can initially be a little confusing. Here’s my shortcut: the third floor is the connector. From the lobby, go up to the third floor and you can cross over to the Spa Wing, where you’ll find the spa, pools, gym and car collection.

Parking can also get tricky when the hotel is full. Fortunately, the staff are very helpful and will find a solution, even moving cars onto the back lawn when things get particularly busy.

What I Love About Hotel Union

After more than 50 nights here, I think the things I love most about Hotel Union are actually quite simple: the people, the views and the feeling of being able to relax.

I’m always happy to see the friendly faces at the front desk when I arrive, especially when they recognize me and welcome me back. The family-run atmosphere makes the hotel feel personal in a way that I don’t think you get at every hotel.

Then there are the views. Whether I’m looking out over the Geirangerfjord or relaxing on the lawn beside the outdoor pool, the scenery is spectacular.

And finally, the spa and pool make it very easy to slow down. Add a comfortable bed and a good dinner at the end of the day, and I understand why I keep coming back.

(And potentially watching Love Island with a glass of wine in the tub)

Things to Know Before You Book

Hotel Union isn’t the right choice for everyone, and that’s worth knowing before you book.

The hotel sits above the village, so you’ll have to walk downhill to get to Geiranger and uphill again when you return. The waterfall trail involves quite a few stairs, so this is something to consider if you have difficulty walking.

The hotel is also at the upper end of Geiranger’s accommodation prices. I don’t find it unusually expensive compared with the rest of the area, but if you’re traveling on a tight budget or simply plan to spend all day out exploring and only return to the hotel to sleep, you might consider choosing somewhere simpler.

Accessibility is another thing to consider. The ramp leading to the Spa Wing, where some of the balcony rooms are located, is very steep. While the area is technically accessible, a regular wheelchair may need assistance getting up the ramp.

And don’t worry too much about finding a hotel that is “central.” Geiranger is tiny. The village itself has only a handful of restaurants and shops and one hotel, Havila, so staying right in the center doesn’t give you the kind of convenience you might expect in a larger town.

Instead, I’d choose the hotel where you’ll actually enjoy spending your time.

For me, that’s Hotel Union.

My (final) Verdict

As you can probably understand, I absolutely love the Union, and wholeheartedly recommend it for your stay in Geiranger. As you may have also read in my Geiranger guide, I recommend spending at least one night in the village (ideally 2 or even 3)!

Hopefully you will feel as relaxed as I do every time I stay at the Hotel Union, and whether you opt for treatments and relaxation at the spa, to enjoy the views from the outdoor pool or lawn, or to just keep it as a base as you explore the trails and waterfalls of the area; I am sure you’ll love it too!

As with anywhere else by the fjords, especially in summer, it is important to book in advance when you know your travel dates.